My Parting remarks and few Observations on NIM

The entire course, though very tough, was unique but loads of fun too. From living in tents for 18 days, laughing and crying with team mates at the same time, to putting up with people’s egos and tantrums! It all makes me think that to experience adventure and beauty you have to experience extremes.
My asthma never posed a problem all through the course. Infact, the higher I went I had stopped wheezing as well. The doctor had given me a clean chit of being fit. I did not have problems of acclimatizing while some others did.
Infact what was surprising is that some girls who came across as physically fit actually ended up with breathing attacks on high altitudes.
But what disappoints me is that finally I have been graded on the basis of my Asthma. I have been given a B grade because I am an asthmatic and not because i did not perform well.
While some others, who were ill during the course, did not complete height gain due to their illness have managed to get an A Grade…. I wonder how and on what basis?
But let me conclude by saying that a B Grade is not going to stop me from scaling more heights year after year.

Three Phases of Traning at NIM

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The first phase of our training begins....

it invovled Rock Craft, for which we walked the entire stretch of 11 km from the NIM campus to Tekhla, the rock climbing zone. The most adventurous aspect of this phase was climbing up 40m high rocks and then rappelling down the same. Climbing also included artificial wall climbing within the premises of the institute. The institute has an international climbing wall. The first Asian sport climbing competition was held here at the NIM institute.

This was followed by the most memorable part of the course: the 18 day trek!
We left from the NIM campus on June 3 and our journey literally took us across many mountains and rivers, forests and glaciers! Here were 63 basic course mountaineering trainees (208 Basic Course.. that’s what we were addressed as when in a group), with 20 kg ruck-sacks on our backs, working purely on the directions of their instructors. Initially one feels like a porter, but slowly as you get into the groove of training you realize what fun all this is.

Our journey took us from NIM (4,300 feet) to Bukhi Road head to Tel Camp(8,200 feet), Jungle camp, Gujjar Hut camp and finally Base Camp (12,300 feet) and then Advance base Camp (13400ft) and then finally a height gain of 16000 ft to Camp 1of ‘Draupadi Ka Danda Peak’.
It sounds like a great achievement now, but at that moment we were all humbled by the beauty of the places we passed by, with beautiful rhododendrons, buttercups, marshmarygolds and other colourful flowers inviting us to their humble abode.

Walking through valleys of flowers, with snow carpeted mountains, crossing crystal clear streams and hearing the gurgling waters, was such a pleasure, it compensated for the tough journey and heavy luggage, giving us all a sense of calm and contentment. It was all worth it!

Second Phase of Training
The day after reaching base camp, we took off for the second phase of our course: Ice Craft:.
We would trek to the Dokriani Bamak glacier, which was a black glacier- a mountainous area of pure ice covered with rubbles and morraines. We were all anxious at first, since the climb to the place itself made us slip and fall a dozen times and then the ice craft was even more grueling. We were taught techniques of ascending and descending on ice slopes, glaciers and crevasses with the help of ice axe, pitons, wearing heavy ice boots and crampons (spikes attached to the base of the boots for grip on ice). But by the end of the 5 day training in this area, I was confident enough to walk up and down the ice slopes and enjoy!
During our lecture sessions at base camp, we were instructed on the various aspects related to mountaineering. It included lectures on avalanches, glaciers, flora and fauna, important medical information about the effect of high altitudes on mountains, importance of different types of food on the mountains and we were also shown mountaineering films on Mount Everest expeditons, Jamling Norgay’s narration of his father Tenzing Norgay’s expeditions and his like for Everest and not to miss Hollywood films such as Vertical Limit and Into Thin Air!
Some highlights of the Course
Many of our instructors gave us detailed stories of their experiences on the various peaks they had climbed such as Everest, Chowkhamba and many other peaks in the Garhwal Himalayas. We were fortunate to have with us on our trip Colonel Balwant Sandhu, ex principal of the institute and his wife Helga.
The first time when he introduced himself to us he said he was a mountaineer and that had climbed several peaks and had done several expeditions. To his credit also lies the fact that he climbed Changabang, as leader of an Indo-British expedition. The peak is also called ‘the sharks tooth’ because of its extreme steep feature. After his succesful summit to this peak no one till date has climbed this peak. He ended his introdution by telling us “ I have climbed several peaks but i have not climbed the Everest”. I was kicked by that statement. At a time when every single mountaineer you come across their only am in life is to climb ‘The Everest’ and here was this experienced climber who has no qualms about saying that he has not climbed the Everest.
When asked him why he had never though of climbing the Everest he simply told me “ I did not want to pt myself through so much torture.I climb because i love the mountains and not to prove something or break some record.” I quite shared his thoughts. I am also asked by a lot of my friends if i have done EBC (Everest Base Camp) trek and when i tell them i have not they look at me with this expresson what mountaineer are you? You have not done EBC? Well you never know i might do it someday but so far it was not on my agenda .
The experience Col Sandhu shared with us was priceless and awe inspiring. His German wife Helga shared her thoughts with us on Flora and fauna. Col Sandhu also gave us lot of insights into the environmental hazards that has gripped the Himalayas such as receding glacier problems.

An important point that Col Sandhu once told me during the entire trip was about how you cannot take the mountains for granted and that even though the mountains can be very beautiful, they can also be very ruthless!

Last Phase of Training
From Base camp we proceeded to Advance Base Camp, at a height of 13,400 feet and this was also third and last phase of our course: Snow Craft. Here we learnt the techniques of ascending on soft snow with the help of ice axe and ropes. I really enjoyed this part of the training. Thereafter my most enjoyable part of training was the final height gain from Advance Base Camp to Camp 1 of Draupadi Ka Danda peak at 16000 ft.
I enjoyed this bit the most, as I walked effortlessly amidst the snow. At time there were slight whiteouts but overall the feeling was so fantastic at the end of the climb and very enriching.
At the end of snow craft training and our height gain, we returned back to base camp. We revised Map reading and navigaton techniques was taught to us with the use of a compass and service protractor and the next day we were sent on a treasure hunt! based on the map reading and navigation skills that we had learnt.
As all serious courses do, this one too had a test at the end. Hence, on the last day after he treasure hunt.. everyone could be seen sitting with book in hand trying to memorise all the notes given to us during the lectures. For the last couple of years NIM had made it compulsory for all trainees to get atleast 40 percent marks in theory. This would also help in getng an A Grade.
It’s only when you get an A Grade that you are allowed to seek admission for an Advance course.
The day arrived when we were to return back to the NIM campus. We walked from Base Camp to Tel, which took us 9 hours, with just few breaks in bettween.
The next day was our final trek to Bukhi road head from where we were driven back to the NIM campus. The euphoria on everyone’s faces on seeing the buses, a sign of civilization after 18 days of living like nomads, was worth seeing!

On arrival at the Campus:

We arrive at the campus on 26th. There is chaos as usual. So many girls there is bound to be chaos. We then hear a loud stern voice asking us to shut up. It is one of the senior instructors of the Institute. We are then asked to fall in a line and each one of us is asked to enter our name, address and place of birth in a register after which we are allotted a room for the first day. I was allotted room no.2. It’s a bunker system room with six comfortable beds. I unload my back pack and occupy one of the cupboards. Then two others girls come in and do the same.
Along with me in the same room were Roopa from Delhi, Banarasi (Babu) from MP-Chattisgarh an NCC Cadet, Shreyanka from Bangalore, Kanchan from Mumbai and Janhvi from Ahmedabad.
Jhanvi was the youngest amongst us .. she was all of 17 and she was doing this course inspired by her father who had just summitted Mount Everest with the Indian Police Expedition. Shreyanka, a Yoga specialist was doing the course because it was suggested to her by her aunt who goes climbing with Bachendri Pal – the first Indian woman to summit Everest. She had no clue what trekking is or what she was going to do over the next 28 days. Banarasi had come through NCC and Kanchan was sponsored by an NGO called Saathi in Mumbai..which has interests in adventure sports.
After introducing ourselves, the restlessness of sitting idle doing nothing was getting to me. So I decide to go for a short walk around the lush green campus. Shreyanka joins me for the walk.
It’s strange but you meet some people for the first time and it seems like you have known the person for long. I must honestly confess here that I never expected to make so many friends at the Institute but by the end of the course I had made so many friends. And hopefully they are all there to stay.
As I go around the campus I see that the campus has a Himalayan Museum, Indoor and Outdoor climbing wall, a library, a temple, cafeteria, Green House, Himalayan Flora and Fauna, equipments and medical room, souvenir shop etc … But one cannot just walk into these places. There are specific timings to visit these places. First day everything seems strange.. one really wonders why am I doing this? But eventually you realize it is worth it…..
Around 7 pm the entire 208 Basic Course is summoned to the lecture hall for a pep Talk that was to be delivered by C Norbu one the senior most instructors at the Institute. At the pep talk we were told about the course, mountaineering, the certain dos and donts within the Campus and and rules to follow. A gist of the 28 days course and what is expected of us.
After a nice long walk…we step into the cafeteria and gorge on some Momos and Maggie Noodles….as we knew that from day 2 onwards training will start and we will be confide to Mess Food….(which I must again confess was very good).
After dinner I once again took a short walk but not too far away from the eyes of the instructors. We are all asked to get back to our rooms by 8.30 and 9.30 lights go off.
Day two was going to be an early day…..we are told

It's been a wonderful experience!!!

So what have I been doing in the last few months…why have I not updated my blog ? Well no particular reason for not updating my blog.. But now I would like to start off my update with my trip to Nehru Institute of Mountaineering for my Basic Mountaineering Course. I promise I will be regular from now on

Wonderful Experience !!

In a world where most are consumed by endless commitments and routine, dreams often take a back seat. As a fairly successful journalist, I believe I have been able to effectively leverage my climbing experiences to prove that one can successfully marry work and outdoor passion to achieve something remarkable for ones own self.
That’s probably one reason that I sought admission to the Nehru Institute of Mountaineering (NIM), Asia’s premier institute of mountaineering to do my Basic course in Mountaineering, a course that teaches you everything from walking in the hills, to packing your back pack to rock climbing to Ice climbing in the glacier, snow craft, lecture sessions on mountaineering and Himalayas and much more..
When I told this to my friends who are far from being trekkers or mountaineers they thought I had kind of lost it. “One month of concentration camp” (well that’s what they thought it was when I gave them a brief on what I had enrolled for) you must be nuts….
Not their fault .. as they associate a month long holiday with a stay in a resort where one could chill and have a good time with all the comforts of life. And mine was a holiday that was a complete contrast of what a holiday should be.
But nothing stops me. And so I set out for Uttarkashi from Mumbai on May 25, 2009 as I had to report at the Institute on 26th.
I reached Uttarkashi main market on 26th afternoon from where the NIM bus would be picking up all the trainees to take them to the Institute. As I landed in the main market from Dehradun, I realise I am not alone. There were several other girls from various parts of the country with their loaded backpacks all set to for the course. I couldn’t wait to get to the institute. I was sitting at the window seat and gaping outside as though i had never been to the mountains before. And then as the bus entered the gates of the sacred Institution my happiness knew no bounds...I realised I was sheepishly grinning to myself and suddenly i notice one of the girls staring at me.
I wasn't a novice to the course. I had heard such a lot from my friends who had done the course that it had half prepared me for the course and i was ready for all eventualities. But, there were several others who had absolutely no clue what they were going to be doing. Most girls I spoke to thought it was going to be an adventure camp and therefore a lot of fun for the next 28 days. Little did they know we were far from having fun.
The Institute demands that you are fit both physically, mentally and medically for the course. So a little amount of training prior to the course is always good. Especially practicing walking with load for at least 2 hours daily.
I being a chronic asthmatic, took more efforts to be fit. I was not sure in the first place if my application would be accepted. But when they did i decided i would give my best shot at this course.
Apart from this being a long standing dream, I also wanted to do the course to break the myth that asthmatics are physically and medically not fit to do mountaineering. I want to be an example to all those asthmatics out there who constantly live in this fear that they cannot do outdoors and therefore deprive themselves of all the fun by living a very restricted and boring life.
But let me tell you no amount of training is enough. I realized that nothing would have prepared me for what I was to face in the coming 28 days. Wake-up at 4.30 in the morning, assemble for physical training at 6.30 am and thereafter have a hectic schedule for the entire day filled with lecture sessions, artificial wall and natural rock climbing training, tent pitching, long treks, etc!
Initially everyone was fine but later on slowly the physical stress and fatigue started to set in. The course is designed in such a manner that the moment you realize you are free for sometime…. The whistle would suddenly blow and it would be time for a fall in…phew…
The instructors well made sure that not a single trainee was sitting idle. There would always be something or the other to do…For many of us city bred individuals sleeping in bunk beds and living a disciplined lifestyle was new.
Girls were aghast to know that we could not even walk in our slippers in the hostel. At all given times one had to make sure that she was wearing shoes when she stepped out of her room. But that’s a reality that we had to live with for one month…..

So what’s a Basic Course?
In this course, beginners are taught the basic techniques of movement on rock, snow and ice. This is achieved through practical training and theoretical knowledge about the various aspects of mountaineering, including conservation of Himalayan environment, preserving health in the mountains, toughen the body by increasing resistance to cold, hunger and fatigue.
The trainees of the Basic course spend initial four to six days at Uttarkashi and Tekhla, where they undergo physical conditioning, toughening up exercises, long walks and extensive rock climbing training. Thereafter, they spend the next 18 days in the mountains; the journey towards base camp involves tow to three intermediate camps, which help the trainees acclimatize. During their stay in the mountains, students are trained in the basic techniques of snow craft and ice craft that help in climbing at high altitudes. On completion of training, basic course students are taken for a height gain, up to altitudes ranging between 16,000 and 19,000 feet.

Since the course was for one whole month and there is so much to share I will be adding to this piece every day from tomorrow.. so watch this space for more……

Across the Countryside on two wheels

People in Mumbai avoid cycling to avoid the traffic and human rush. But have you thought of escaping into the countryside with your cycle? Not too far just about 80 kms away from busy Mumbai. Believe me it's not a bad idea at all. Its fun though of a different sort- like sweating like a pig in the hot sun, gasping for breath, cramps and pains midway. But it also means clear blue skies, verdant mountains, friendly village folks, lush paddy fields, lots of goodness and a tremendous sense of achievement at the end of it all.
In the outskirts of Mumbai cycling can take you past some of the most beautiful locations and above all it's a great way to de-stress for all the Mumbaikars. I also think it is a great way to explore the local areas which otherwise most city dwellers never get a chance. Cycling through those little villages, lush green paddy fields surrounded on all sides by mountains and at times riding through the busy village markets and bus stands is a great way to know the place. Cycling gives you a different thrill as opposed to driving and is definitely is a refreshing change for one day from the mundane city life.
Last Sunday I went cycling in the Karjat region of the Sahyadri ranges. I was part of the Odati team which was conducting the cycling trip for Mojo Eye-Wear promoted by Yogi (Yogesh) Shah of the Backpackers Co. fame. I call it the Mojo Bike ride. There were in all 25 participants. Our ride was to start at Hal Junction and end at Tata Power's hydro-electricity generator plant situated near Bhivpuri dam.
After our breakfast at the famous Shree Dutt we drove 25kms aead of Panvel to Hal Junction. After a short briefing session by Jayesh we began the ride at around 9 am from Hal Junction on NH4.
Karjat is an extended suburb of Mumbai and Navi Mumbai. It is located on Bhor Ghat, Sahyadri Western Ghats as well as at the end of coastal plains of Konkan region near Deccan and lies on the banks of the Ulhas river. Bhor Ghat was an ancient trade route connecting the ports at Choul, Revdanda, Panvel, etc. on the Konkan coast and the hinterland on the Deccan plateau.
As we rode from Hal junction we passed through Palasdari village and lake, heading straight to Karjat. On the way we passed through model and actor Perizad Zorabia's famed Zorabian Chick farms and also many farm houses. Few years back the place had a couple of farm houses and today there are lot many. More and more people are buying plots in this part to build their weekend homes. I was told that Karjat has got one of the largest chain of Farm Houses in Asia. Now that's interesting to note.
Another point to be note is the number of new hotels that have sprung up in the last two or three years. I remember when we used to come trekking to Karjat some years back there used to be two or three dhabbas where you had to make do with chai and biscuits and vada pavs. But Karjat has flourished now with lot more hotels and many of whom have put up boards to start their operations soon. Karjat also has an advanced bio-tech institute which has been developing patented hybrid varieties of rice of international repute, apart from other crops and techniques. As you go into the interior you come across paddy fields. Another landmark of Karjat is art director Nitin Desai's "ND Studio". This studio has become a tourist attraction. Currently, Raja Chattrapati Shivaji is being shot here for Star Pravah.
It was a beautiful ride from Palasdari to Karjat (approximately 15 km) but slowly the heat was getting on to us. Nevertheless we continued passing through some busy and some quaint villages like Dahivili, Vinegaon, Vadap and Jhambivili. The most beautiful aspect of the ride was the long stretch of ride from Dahivili to the final destination Tata Power station. The roads were beautiful without any bumps or pot holes and completely clear of traffic. As we rode along we cut an unusual sight. But the response from the locals was always warm.People were so welcoming.They would see us on the cylce and inform us of how far we are from our final destination or if we stopped and asked for water they would immediately get water for us. Kids were excited to see us on cycles and some even asked us for a ride which we did not mind. Many would look at us astonishingly and ask us where are you coming from? and when we would say we are from Mumbai they would raise their eyebrows and give this look of why on earth would you want to cycle all the way from Mumbai to Karjat and probably think we are mad cycling in the hot sun.
If not for the heat the ride would have been much pleasant I thought. Throughout the ride we experienced extreme heat. The only consolation was the breeze was cool. Constantly sipping water while taking on the blazing heat most of us had finished water in our hydrapacks and bottles half way through.
Due to the heat some gave up the ride at Dahivili just after Karjat and decided to follow some of us who were keen on riding in the Qualis. The total ride one way was about 35km. We halted at the Tata Power station along the banks of a river and had some local lunch that we had ordered from a nearby village. This is something most city dwellers miss… the local food –Zunka Bhakri along with some rice, dal , sabzi..and sheera....
After an experience of this sort many were sad that teh day was coming to an end and that we had to head back to the mundane city and the busy life again.
Many decided to head back home right after lunch and few crazy decided to cycle back to Hal Junction. Given a choice I would never want to get off my cycle…..

Picture courtesy: Google Images

On the soils of Ladakh

Precipitous Mountain tracks to beautiful ancient and medieval Buddhist monasteries; high desert plateaus facing magnficient snow peaks …no photograph, no travelogue can ever do justice to the beautiful landscapes of Ladakh. I found it to be a land of stark contrasts – barren desert mountains rear over lush fields in the Indus valley during summers and in Winters the landscape is totally different with just snow capped mountains and dry brown landscape. However; Buddhist prayer flags and colourful monasteries throw splashes of colour on miles of mountainous terrain .

The last time I wrote about Ladakh was last year after I came back from my Nubra valley trek during the summer in August. Then I had written about the socio economic changes that I saw in Leh-Ladakh. (To read the previous post on Ladakh scroll down). In summer, visitors throng Leh. People from all over the world and India come to soak up the cool dry air. Buddhists from all over Asia come to explore and to pray at the region's Tibetan-Buddhist monasteries called Gompas. Western and Indian trekkers come to trek across some of the best hiking terrain in the world.
It was during that trip that I had decided I would like to definitely come back to Leh in winter when I could witness the real lifestyle of the locals. Winters in Leh-Ladakh are so fierce that they enforce isolation. Snow normally closes the roads to the outside world for six months. Infact we were told that many of the locals too shift residence for almost four to six months. They relocate themselves in either Jammu or in Delhi.
I wasn’t alone for this visit. Five friends- Jayesh, Ashish and his wife Shubhangi, Pushkar, Sridhar and myself (all trekkers) were equally crazy to do this trip. We were in Ladakh during the Republic day long weekend (January 24 to January 27).
We landed in Leh on January 24 in the afternoon at about 2 pm after a six hour long wait at the Delhi airport. Generally the flights are either cancelled or delayed during winter from Delhi to Leh due to the weather conditions but one more reason for our flight to get delayed was the Delhi air strip was closed from 7.30 am to 12.30 pm for R-Day Parade practice. We had a Canadian Team company at the Delhi airport. They were going to Leh to play the Indo-Canadian Friendly Ice Hockey Match on 25th and 26th.
On landing in Leh the temperature was below freezing at about 4 degree centigrade. We headed straight to our guest House ‘Kalam Guest House’. The guest house was attached to a nice cozy Ladakhi home. We were given a warm welcome by the lady of the house Mrs Ahmed and her little son Abid. After serving us a hot cup of tea we were escorted to our respective rooms. Luckily none of us were hit by high altitude sickness. After settling into our rooms and parking ourselves in front to the gas heater we decided we would go on a short walk along the streets of Leh Market.
We stepped out at 5 pm and the streets were deserted. The market was shut and the locals were indoors. It was totally a different experience from summers where the markets are crowded and the shops are open till about 10-11 pm at night. We roamed for a while. Did a little bit of nick-nack shopping and got back to our guest house where dinner was waiting for us. Mrs Ahmed had cooked some delicious vegetarian meal for us. Sitting in the warmth of the ‘bukhari’ placed in the centre of the room we relished the food.

Day 2
The previous night was cold. The temperature outside our rooms in the night was around -12 degree centigrade. The temperature inside our rooms was 1.4 degree centigrade. I was getting used to it. We did have a heater on but could not keep it on all night as it was a gas heater. But despite the cold I slept well the first night. I guess because I was tired and had not slept the previous night at Delhi airport like the others did. It was a pleasant Sunday morning. I woke up bright and chirpy and was rearing to step out. The view outside our windows was marvelous. We could see that it had snowed a bit at night.
We were picked up by Qayoom at around 9 am from the guest house. We first headed straight to Karzoo Ice Skating Ring in Leh to watch the Indo-Canadian friendly Ice Hockey match. But unfortunately it had not started. So we decided to drive down to Shati Stupa, located on a ridge about 1km from Leh. The drive is through the village of Changspa. It was built by a Japanese Buddhist organization, known as 'The Japanese for World Peace'. The aim behind the construction of the stupa was to commemorate 2500 years of Buddhism and to promote World Peace. His Holiness, the Dalai Lama inaugurated the Shanti Stupa in the year 1985. The magnificent white-dome structure is a beautiful monument decorated with colourful paintings and enshrines large statues of Buddha. It has a wonderful view over Leh and the Indus valley especially during sunrise and sunset during the summer season.
After a photography session we drive back to the Ice Hockey venue.
The match had begun and the entire Leh town –kids, oldies, men and women gathered at the ground to watch the locals play the Canadians. Just as you have seen people sit on trees to watch a Cricket match it was the same level of excitement to watch an Ice Hockey match. It was my first experience of witnessing Ice Hockey up and so close. The Canadians were leading by 1 goal and finally won the match 4-2.
The match happens every winter and is organized by the Leh Winter Sports Club. It was fun. I was told that the Lakadakh Winter Sports Club was established in 1995 by a group of local hockey fans (some sort of hockey has been played in Ladakh for more than 30 years). Most of the players were gathered from the Army teams who plays hockey in the Winter. The club couldn't afford any equipment, but the locals improvised and made hockey sticks and pucks carved out of army ammo boot heels and using handmade blades screwed to the soles of heavy army boots. The skates were provided to them by tourists. In 2002, the NHL Player Association stepped in and equipped the team with 50 sets of hockey equipment.
After the Ice Hockey match we proceeded to Neha Snacks for some delicious hot Chole-Batura and Samosa Chole. It was just ideal for the climate. After a sumptuous meal we proceeded to Thiksey monastery. The drive along the snow filled roads surrounded by snow capped mountains on all sides was amazing.
The most attractive feature of the landscape of Ladakh are the Buddhist monasteries situated on the isolated hillock in the vicinity of villages, these aesthetically pleasing, architecturally interesting monasteries provide the focus for the faith of the highly religious Buddhist people.
Situated at an altitude of 3600 m above sea level and located about 20 km away from Leh Town, Thiksey Monastery is an outstanding specimen of Ladakhi architecture. It’s part of Gelukpa order in Buddhism and is beautifully located in the picturesque top of a hillock. It encloses numerous stupas, Thangkas, statues, swords, wonderful wall paintings and a large pillar carved with Buddha’s ideas and preaching, all in a mammoth 12 storied building complex. The monastery houses one of the largest Buddhist statues, the 15 metre tall Champa, the Buddha of Future and located strategically.

Day 3
It was republic day morning and our plan for the day was to visit a village so as to be able to see the Ladakhi houses and experience the local lifestyle. We want to go on a cultural tour so to say. After that we were to go to Lamayuru, one of the oldest monasteries in Ladakh and if possible to Alchi monastery as well on our way back. It was a clear day with bright sun showing up and no snow fall. We started the day with our drive to Lamayuru and on the way we stopped at Sas Pol, a quaint little village. As we entered the village, we find all the locals both young and old and kids proceeding for the R-Day celebrations in the centre of the village.
The men and women (the older generation) were all dressed in the local Ladakhi attire called Goncha.
Goncha is a voluminous robe of thick woollen cloth with a colourful cummerbund tied at the waist, is the most common Ladakhi dress; loose pyjamas, a top hat and long felt boots complete the ensemble. Slight dress variations exist for men and women. Buddhists mainly wear brick red robes but the nomads of Chang Thang and the Kargil Muslims wear undyed clothes with the latter also using the round knitted Balti cap with a rolled brim.
Bhuddists Ladakhi women wear an attractive headgear called perak, made of black lamb skin studded with semi precious turquoise stones, covering the head like a cobra's hood and tapering to a thin tail reaching down the back. For ceremonial purposes, colourful robes in silk and brocade are worn. There was one old lady we found wearing the Perak and I just could not get my eyes off her.
There was so much excitement around with the celebrations of Republic Day. It was such a pleasure watching them. I wondered are we in the same country and same State of J&K where in certain parts of the State there are terrorists striking and killing people every second day and the other place is Ladakh where the Muslims and Buddhists co-exist so beautifully.
The entire village had gathered around for the celebrations and they were waiting for a senior district official to come and start the proceedings. Unfortunately we couldn't stay till the celebrations began as we were getting late to go to Lamayuru. We had to reach Lamayuru by afternoon. It was a long way ahead.
Driving along the picturesque landscape of Srinagar-Kargil-Leh road we reached Khaltse by 1 pm in the afternoon and decided to park ourselves here for sometime to have lunch. Soon after lunch we proceeded straight to Lamayuru. On the way we encountered several Icy mountains where we hopped off to get some pictures.
The Lamayuru monastery is located on a high rocky outcrop, which overlooks a valley and the village of Lamayuru, 125 Km west of Leh. It is also called the Yung Drung or Swastika monastery and its stunning location makes this monastery a must visit on a tour to Ladakh.
As the legend goes, Lamayuru was a lake. It was blessed by a Lama after which the water of the lake receded up to the mountains leaving place for the monastery to be built. In the 11th century the Mahasiddha Naropa came to this place and the cave where he resided and meditated is still seen today. The monastery today is house to 300 monks of the Red Hat sect of Buddhism. In this monastery there are various shrines to be seen, including thangkas and wall paintings.
From Lamayuru we proceeded to Alchi. Unfortunately the monastery was closed . Nevertheless we went around Alchi Monastery and saw whatever we could. Alchi Choskor is the large and most famous of all the monasteries in Ladakh. Alchi is situated at a distance of 67 Kms west of Leh, founded by Rinchen Zangpo, translator, in 1000 AD.
An interesting aspect of these monasteries is the fact that the approach to the monasteries is lined with mane walls and Chortens. Mane walls are made of votive stones on which prayers and holy figures are inscribed, while Chortens are semi religious shrines or reliquaries, containing relics of holy people or scripts. Finally we ended the day at around 7 pm and headed straight to the guest house.

Day 4
When I got up that morning the weather seemed a little dull. It was a cloudy morning and very cold but around 8.30 the sky cleared up. All of us were very keen that we visit a Ladakhi village and then if possible visit a local’s home and understand from them about the culture of Ladakh. So as per plan we headed straight to Saboo- the model village of Leh.
Saboo is a small village that lies on the outskirts of Leh. It was like stepping back into time. We parked the car and walked to the homestead down narrow passageways and climbing over makeshift stonewalls.
I personally realized few things. There are interesting facts about Ladakhi homes. Almost every Ladakhi knows how to build one, and they obviously don’t use architectural plans.
The homes are usually very large to accommodate several generations of family members. Most of the homes have lots of windows, but no central heat. In winters they have a ‘Bukhari’ that is strategically placed in one of the central rooms which is usually used to entertain guests and eat. Most have electricity, but the ones in the country side depend a lot on solar for their basic needs. I found the homes to be very beautiful. We started our interaction with the local population with making use of the term ‘juley’, the local way of salutation. After trying to find out which home we could visit as we were roaming around in the village. I was lucky to spot one villager in his backyard feeding his cattle. I went up to him and requested him if we could come inside and see his house and talk to him. At first he was reluctant but later agreed. He was a Buddhist and his house was a small and very cozy. As we entered his home his father who was 76 years old was praying. We nearly spent about half hour in the villager’s home to experience the life style of Ladakhis. On the instance of the villager we also allowed ourselves to be conducted to a Ladakhi kitchen where we tasted Ladakhi ‘gurgur’ tea. "I enjoyed it", it was much better than the one I had tasted in Arunachal Pradesh made out of Yak Butter.
He then took us upstairs and was kind enough to show us the temple he had in his little home. It was beautiful. Finally it was time for us to leave and get back to Leh.
Back in Leh we did what every tourists do--- ‘Shop’. After shopping we once again went to neha snacks for a sumptuous lunch and headed straight home. It was our last day in Leh and all of us had to pack and take some rest. While four of us sridhar, pushkar, shbhangi and myself were leaving for Mumbai, jayesh and Ashish were geting ready and packing for their Chaader trek. This is a trek that takes places on the stretch of the frozen Zanskar river.

This is was one of my most memorable trips. I witnessed the Ladakhi culture which I thought I had missed when I went there in summers.

Spirit of Mumbai….????

Nothing has changed in this country and this city and never will. I did not write about the attacks all this while as the TV channels were anyway giving a minute by minute account of the entire disaster. They only fell short of going in and being a part of the operation along with the NSG Commandos. It was getting on to me now. So i decided to pen down my views.

The four days that I was on field covering the attacks in this city, I for a minute never felt that a serious terror attack had struck the city and that the brave NSG commandos and few of our brave local police had put their life on line to eliminate these terrorists. With so many people out on the streets it all seemed like it was a film shooting. And the one thing that local police authorities could not do is control the Mumbai public while the operation was still on.
I get off the train at CST station early on Thrusday morning and i find the place absolutely normal. I did not seem like 50 people had died due to terrorists indiscriminately firing at the innocent people. The tragic attack had not left any traces.Trains were plying as usual. there were no barricades.. policemen were seen sitting lazily as usual and taxi's were running normal right inside the gates of CST. Yes but i must say that photographers of all those policemen and railway staff who had died in the attacks were put up but sadly the sacrifices of these people were camouflaged with the deaths of more influential and high-profiled policemen.
On thursday monring as i proceed towards Taj, my first halt, i find that public were on the streets as early as 9 am in the morning on Thursday outside Taj to get a first hand experience of what was happening. I found the same enthusiam outside Oberoi/Trident as well.. But at Oberoi and Trident the media as well as Public were kept far way at Air India signal and therefore nothing much was visible.
Finally not to miss the locals around Nariman House who had parked themselves on the terrace of their respective buildings to catch a glimpse of what was happening 24X7.
Alongside media there was public who was rubbing shoulders with journalists and camera man. At one point I could not figure out between news photographers and cameraman and the common man as the common man was out there with his handycam and their own cameras trying to capture the action.
To add to the confusion there were some celebrity journalists who had made their way from Delhi to cover the attacks.
Here is what I came across on Thursday night after I had surveyed all the three spots and finally came back to my office at Nariman Point (right next to the Oberoi Hotel).
I was waiting outside like every other journalist and cameraman on the road in anticipation that now this could be an end. But alas! No we were told there were two terrorists inside and several guests who were trapped inside and the NSG’s task was to first get the survivors out safely while they simultaneously tackle the terrorists. It was a long wait as we really had no clue where all this was going and what was actually happening.
Amidst all this action and distressed wait for many of us, I see this couple alighting out of their swank Honda City car. After parking the car I see them walking towards me. They come straight to me and with some authority ask me .so what’s the situation? I politely ask them who they were and they excitedly tell me oh well we have just come to see what’s happening”? The man’s reply completely cheesed me off and I told him he was being stupid to come all the way to risk his and his wife’s life. Then he tells me the other reason for him to be there was to actually see “Barkha Dutt”…we want to take her autograph. I was completely dumbstruck and boiling with anger from within . I had a good mind to slap that guy I just held myself back. The jerk then had the audacity to ask me to escort him to great Miss Dutt since I had a press card and that would make it easy for him get an autograph. All I did was just walked away from that man. I found many such idiots who had come into to town as though some kind of film shoot was taking place.
Is this the spirit of Mumbai? where people come all the way to be get photographed with celebrity journalists or take their autographs while there were people dying inside because some bloody terrorists had entered randomly and gunning down people.
I thought the next day things would be in control …but no it was even worse. There were more people on the street. I had a strange encounter with one guy outside the Air India Building where the survivor’ list from Oberoi and Trident was put up. He was a friend of a guy who was stuck inside the Oberoi on that fateful night. But he was lucky I was told that he had survived. While that friend who was stuck will never forget his ordeal.. here was this guy who was trying to get in one minute fame on TV. All he was doing standing outside the Air-India building was to figure out how many TV channels were there and who he could speak to in order to get that one minute of fame. He first came up to me and asked if I was from a TV channel and I said "Sorry to disappoint you.. no I am not from a TV channel". He then got his one minute fame with one of the hindi news channels and later had found out I was from India Today and came up again to talk to me to tell me about his friend and I categorically refused to speak to him. I mean imagine here is a guy who has probably miraculously escaped and on the other hand there is this friend of his who is trying to get mileage out of his dreadful plight. Is this the Spirit of Mumbai?
The worst was on the same day evening at Nariman House. The operations had not even ended that the locals from the area had gathered on the street cheering the commandos as though we had won a cricket match and not a war. They were shouting slogans and a huge mob had crowded. The best of this place was that while the local police was seen simply standing or waltzing around with their lathis with absolutely no agenda. They just could not control the mob. And when asked to control them one of them turns around and tell me ‘Jaane do na madam. Sab Khush hai’ aap apna Kaam karo na’. How was I supposed to do my work when I was almost being pushed around by the mob with no proper designated place to stand for media, we had a terrible time. To top it all were the TV journalists and their cameraman…( most who had come from Delhi) just as they see the DG General of NSG coming towards us everybody rushes towards him to get a byte as though it was an exclusive.. there was absolutely no self discipline amongst my fraternity.. as well..I am sure you would have all seen it on TV….I would have definitely died in a stampede if I had not moved out in at the right time.
Is this is the Spirit of Mumbai we are talking about? Where the general public had gone ballistic. It’s nice to see all these petitions and campaigns against Media. I am not saying the media was right …but the public and local authorities were no less as well. They added to the confusion to make matters worse. Anyone and everyone at each of these three location where I was covering the disaster had something or the other to say.
Finally on Saturday, the Mumbai public took the cake. Thanks to the TV media,which was giving minute by minute account of the entire operation. Just as when media had got an indication that the operation is more or less coming to end….it was announced on the TV channels and that was it..the public were out there at Gateway of India. The so called affluent and intelligent public of Colaba was out there as well trying to catch a glimpse of the last bit of operation in action.
Is this the spirit of Mumbai? I am not sure.. what’s the spirit of Mumbai as I have seen the worst of the Mumbai Public during the four days I covered the attacks. I am completely disappointed with the Mumbaikars at large. It’s all nice to have these peace marches and protests and raise our voices… against injustice… better late than never… But finally we lack self discipline and that according to me is a habit that will never die.

Why is everybody out on the streets protesting now?
As i see it.. it's because this time around the terrorists have gone into the so called second homes of the affluent class and hurt them. That's why the protests, rallies and all that jazz....
If the attacks would have once again been only on CST and Cama Hospital would we have seen so many people out on the streets protesting or raising their voices against terror. Would there have been such a public outrage? No... i don't think so...
Where was everybody when 300 people died in the Churchgate train blasts. Did people raise their voice or come out on the streets when people died in Ahmedabad and Jaipur? Five blasts in the country since May 2008 and it did not affect anyone.The attitude was life goes on. But when it happened to them (the elites in Five star hotels) the scare has set in.
Aam admi can die and no one cares..I hope all this activism was shown when the first blast took place in the country in Jaipur in May 2008. And hope the elite activism and committment is shown towards other public and civic issues in the city