My NIM experience: My first ascent to Rudugaira Peak (5819 mts)

It’s been three months since I have come back from the Himalaya’s after my Advance course. But, I still like to remember those days as often as I can and feel good. I had not written down anything on my experience as yet until recently, when I remembered my days at NIM (Nehru Institute of Uttarkashi) again. I had just received my Advance Course certificate. Felt good reading it.
My certificate reads: Excellent Leadership Qualities and Team Work and is recommended for High Altitude Mountaineering expeditions and Alpine Camps. Thanks to my instructors for believing in me.
I should tell you a little about Uttarkashi. Uttarkashi (district) in Uttarakhand state is at an altitude of 4000 mts. The streets though are a maze of cobbled lanes. It will take a while before you familiarize yourself to this small town and its lanes. The houses painted in variety of warm hues from Ocher to pinks and cheer Blues make up for quite a palette. If you stand at a height and look at the township you can gaze at an amazingly medley of houses in colours that seem to glow in the warm sunshine. It’s a lovely sight. There is an absolute rainbow of hues, interspersed with lush greenery. The charm of Uttarkashi lies in its people and their hospitality, the small lanes and its busy market. A walk through these narrow lanes in the bazaar is a must. No wonder that I love the place and would like to visit it as often as I could.

My intention to do the NIM course was not for grades but to learn and learn in harsh conditions. The course both Basic and Advance teaches you to deal with harsh environmental conditions, how to work calmly with a team on high altitudes, communicate better in difficult scenarios, be disciplined, have control on your temperament and be mentally strong. These learning I would say have helped in my daily course of life and my professional life too.

The Advance course is tougher than the Basic course in terms of learning new techniques, carrying more loads, preparing an expedition plan etc. Moreover, the advance course students are expected to be role models for the junior Basic Course students. So you are constantly being watched. Your behaviour is under scanner right from day one. Here is a little tip on writing an expedition plan...For expedition planning it is very important that one must pay attention in every lecture and take notes. Also one must start writing a plan during the course unlike me who had left most of the plan to be written on the last day after reaching the hostel. I had to spend a whole sleepless night to write a good plan.

There are few things that are different at the advance course. Unlike in the Basic course, in advance the trainees are put up in camps at Tekhla rocks for advance rock climbing. We pitch our own tents and camp in Tekhla for four days.
Once back at the institute we have artificial climbing sessions, lectures and checking of all equipment and gear before heading to the mountains.

This time around we were taken to Gangotri Glacier instead of Dhokrani Bhamak Glacier. Gangotri is a holy place. It is the origin of the river Ganga and seat of the goddess Ganga and is one of the four sites in the Char Dham pilgrimage circuit. Here you find tourists, pilgrims and mountaineers (Indian and Foreigners). This small town is centered around a temple of the goddess Ganga , which was built by the Napalese General, Amar Singh Thapa in the early 18th century. A visit to the temple and the market is a must here. It’s extremely colourful and the roadside restaurants are most often packed during the evenings, thanks to the tourists and the mountaineers.

The course was a daunting task. Steep ascent with 20 kg load on your back, walking on moraines and avalanche prone areas is no mean task. Our first long trek in to the mountains was really long. This started at Gangotri (Camp 1 at 3080 mts) to Nalla Camp (Intermediate camp) which was at 4280 mts- a height gain of straight 1200 mts… that was a huge. Many were tired and frustrated..some even snapped at each other... its natural..but in mountaineering this is what you are not supposed to do and control your temperament. While some of us were slow and were able to do it, most found it difficult. Many fell ill as soon as they reached the campsite. Reason: they were not well acclimatized and got acute Mountain sickness (AMS). Some even got high altitude pulmonary oedema HAPO).

The place was however beautiful. We could see Jogin peak from our camp site and it had a beautiful scenic surrounding. We were at this intermediate camp for two days due to heavy snow fall. We witnessed upto 2 feet of snow on the first night at the intermediate camp. The snow fall practically kept us awake the whole night as we took turns to shed off the snow from our tents. Lest it wet our tents. The porters and our instructors were also helping us in this task.

After two whole days at the intermediate camp, the third day we proceeded to the base camp at (4600 mts). This was also a beautiful picturesque place surrounded by peaks like the Gangotri Massif (Gangotri 1, 2 and 3) and Rudugaira. The trek to the Base Camp wasn't so bad.

While at the Base Camp we were trained on the Glacier and Snow. Training on the glacier wall involved revision of basic techniques, aid climbing, two piton base climbing, tip toe climbing and climbing using double ice axe.
Snow craft included Toe kicking, Side stepping, heel kicking; Glissading; Different types of belaying; Ice axe retrieval; Crevasse crossing; Rescue techniques in crevasse using C pulley and Z pulley; detecting avalanche prone area; lecture on avalanche rescue using a revolutionary system called Tracker Digital Transceiving System (DTS).

Just to explain what is DTS? It is designed to simplify multiple burial situations. Once a signal is found, the Tracker directs the searcher to that signal. If a second transmitter is detected during the search, the Tracker stays on course and continues to guide the user toward the strongest signal. Once the first victim is located and uncovered, the transmitting beacon should be switched off and the search for the next buried individual should begin.

After all the training and taking into account the weather conditions it was decided by our senior instructors that instead of summiting Gangotri-III (6577 mts) we would be sumitting RuduGaira peak (5819 mts). They decided against Gangotri III due to bad weather conditions. Infact even Rudugaira was a big ? but instructirs decided we would trek to the advance base camp and then decide the future course of action.

So day 14 of our training we got ready early to march to the advance base camp (4920 mts). Although the load we were carrying was less the trek was tough. We encountered steep walks, moraines and bad weather to add to it. But finally when we reached our camp site all the tiredness was forgotten. The best part was that the tents were already pitched. Amidst cold wind and bad weather it was extremely soothing sitting inside the kitchen tent and having hot cups of tea and snacks along with all the instructors. After a while we went for an acclimatisation walk which was good. The best part was that all the 19 of us were well acclamatised and raring to go. We couldn't resist the thought of summitting RuduGaira.

Once back at the camp site, each team had to cook their own meal for the night. We were given Maggie packets and few other ingredients that we wanted along with the gas burner and utensils. This was part of our training to cook in the high altitudes.

As I sat outside the tent to cook the Maggie along with my tent mates Indira and Maj Geetanjali, we had a lovely panoramic view of the mountains Manda1, 2, Brighupanth, Jogin on one side and on the other side; we could see the Gangotri massif. It was sunset time and we could see the tip of the peak shining gold. We finished dinner by 7 and were all ready to hit the sack. The next day was a big day for us –‘The Summit Day’ -The summit of Rudragaira peak(..5819 M) ;

The first group headed out at 4 am to open the route. The second group left half hour later. The weather was good but windy. The temperature was sub zero with 2 to 5 feet of snow. I wore 6 layers of clothing – 2 T shirts, 1 light jacket; 1 feather jacket and a wind proof jacket and windproof trouser with gaiters, snow boots, helmet and all technical equipment including ice axe and rope.
I maintained a steady pace all through but walked towards end. It was a steep walk all through and the weather was on our side. But we could not delay and had to summit by 9 as the heat was getting harsh. Once the snow starts getting loose it would be a tough for us to descend.

The first batch summitted almost an hour before the second batch. Nevertheless a few of us kept each other motivated and we all finally made it. Except three girls who mentally gave up towards the end. It was our first all woman Ascent to Rudugaira on June 17, 2010. It was a great sense of achievement for all of us. We spent hardly 2 minutes on the top of the peak and had to immediately start descending.

The descend was killing. After a while we had to put on our crampons as the snow got loose and it was difficult getting a grip to walk down.

But as they say all’ well that end’s well. Each and everyone reached the advance camp safely.

The course has helped me hone my technical skills but as they say no amount of training helps unless and until you continuously practice it. The expedition was one hell of an experience. After you have experienced it, you realize what it takes to be a mountaineer.

Back at NIM !!!!

The last time when i took a month's leave and said i was going to climb mountains and learn mountaineering my friends and colleagues thought why would you waste one month doing something like this. Would you not rather spend your time in some luxurious holiday. Well i didn't pay heed to that last year and this year again i am back at NIM for my advance course in Mountaineering and so are many others from my previous basic course. It just seems like we all met only few days ago. The weather here is fine currently. Slightly cloudy with pleasant breeze. The afternoons though have been extremely hot. Hopefully the weather will remain pleasant through the night and tomorrow. Watching the girls who have come for their Basic course brings back fond memories of the past. I see the same look and apprehension on their faces which was so starkly visible on my face last year when i was here for the course. Despite having read up all about the course and also having spoken to many of my friends about the course i was still apprehensive about what was in store for me.
This time around what's interesting is the mix of people who have come to do their basic and advance course. There is a Bharat Natyam dancer from Chennai, an architect from Delhi, a Spanish teacher and translator from Mumbai, a graphic designer, a homeopathic doctor and i am sure there would be many more. The one thing that has brought us all together here is the passion for adventure sports.
Right now we are all waiting for the induction programme to begin later this evening when the dos and dont's would be reiterated to us. This year is going to be exciting for us as we are told that we would be going to Gangotri III. Right now i just can't wait for the course to start. It starts tomorrow but the wait seems too long.....

Reporter's Diary from Dantewada

15.04.10
1600 hrs, Dantewada, Chattisgarh

Right from the time we set out to leave from Mumbai for Vishakapatnama and then to Dantewada in Chattisgarh we were constantly warned of the place and asked to take care. On the surface everything seems normal but deep in the jungles is where all the action is happening.
The journey into the naxals heartland in Chattisgarh involves a 70 to 80km hike, winding through thick jungle over the mineral-rich Bailadila Hills and on through a number of naxal -controlled villages. While, it was obviously difficult for us to capture those dark tales when we were there nevertheless we managed a bit.

Dantewada:

We crossed the borders of three states (Andhar Pradesh, Orissa and Chattisgarh) to finally enter Dantewada. Ever since we stepped into the district –South Bastar area at around 4 pm in the afternoon that the eerie feeling set in. It is one of the most backward regions and district that I had ever been to in this country. It is a mineral rich resource state and if companies are allowed to do business here, it could probably give a fillip to all-round development in the district. But unfortunately, there has been no concrete development in this place for the last 30 years except for roads.

For the main district town-Dantewada has nothing much. The streets look deserted. We got out of our AC car into scorching heat biting in to our skins to find out if all was ok.. have we come on a wrong day, is there a problem.. all sorts of questions was crossing my mind…Finally on enquiring with a local shopkeeper, he tells us that shops are shut because of a weekly off. Strangely it was not hustling district town. We spotted only few locals on the streets. Found out there was only hotel (Madhuban) tucked away in some corner, no petrol pump, no cinema hall or even a children’s park and no auto rickshaws were visible either. There is one district hospital which has just about 22 doctors for the entire town. Manoj, a local shopkeeper tells us if one meets with an accident or is seriously ill he or she will have to be rushed either to Raipur or Visakapatnam both of which are equidistant from Dantewada.

We decide to go meet the district collector. To our surprise we find this young lady IAS Officer Reena Kangle. She has been posted there for a year now. Amidst all the eeriness she came as a breadth of fresh air. I was surprised to note that in a place where no sane person wants to go, here is this young lady who is the district collector and trying to bring some order in to the place.

She tells us the pathetic situation of the South Bastar region. “This is the most backward regions,” says Kangle. When asked about the hospital she says: “32 specialist doctors’ posts are still vacant here. Nobody is willing to come here.”
Of the 1700 schools in Dantewada, 200 have been blown off by the naxalites in the inner villages and the others have few teachers. “Dantewada is the least literate districts in the entire country just about 25 per cent of the 5.5 lakh population are literate,” says Kangle.
I was amazed to find out that a five year old in the villages of Bastar region or in the villages in Dantewada knows how to blow up an ID bomb or a land mine or even make a tiffin bomb, but they do not know how to write their name or count. Tiffin bombs as we understand from the police authorities are Naxalites greatest strength. These bombs come inside a steel tiffin box and is enough to blow up a jeep.

Moving freely in Dantewada or Kirundul and Bacheli which is about 40 kms from Dantewada main town gathering information was a difficult task. Kirundul and Bacheli is where the iron ore mines are situated.

The silence speaks volumes of intimidation and fear perhaps more from the naxals. The locals are not willing to talk. They do not want to be seen talking to strangers in their town as they would not want to be considered as any kind of informers out of fear of being tortured and killed by the Naxals. Somehow we found our own way to tackle the situation.

Naxals may not be visible to us or even the locals but they make their presence felt by blowing up schools or call for a bandh and disrupt services in the district. They run their own parallel economy and so called government.
The schools are blown up thinking they could become good fortresses for the police forces. In the last year alone they have blown up 12 residential schools building in the central and Southern parts of Dantewada. These are schools for the tribal children in the villages.

What’s surprising is that despite all their atrocities, there are sympathetic voices for these naxalites from educated and well-informed people, who deliberately seem to be ignoring the real menace.

Who are these Naxalites?

A chance meeting with Mahesh Babu (name changed), a surrendered naxalite and who is now a SPO (Special Police Officer) with the state police force brought to the fore the point that the under the garb of alleviating the suffering of the tribal people, their only mission is to loot the rich to buy expensive sophisticated weapons to run their parallel government. None of the money that is being extorted in the name of tax from the local villagers and businessmen is being used for development of the tribals. They are not doing it and they do not want the government to do it either.
“They have their own political agenda. The tribal people’s cause is a façade to cover their evil desires. Most of these naxalite leaders’ kids are studying outside whereas they do not want us tribals to get basic education as well,” Babu says.
From a village in the Bastar region, Babu joined the ranks of the naxalites when he was just 12 years old.
His family comprised of his peasant father, mother, brothers and sister. Babu was brain washed and inducted into the naxal movement in 1993 when the naxalites had come into their hostel building in Dronapal to propagate their movement. They spoke of their ideology by saying that “You cannot end the world’s injustices without stirring a revolution and no revolution happens without bloodying your hands. We are fighting a people’s war – a protracted people’s war.”
Flown by their ideology Babu joined the movement. Like other rebels, he was offered no salary, only the promise of liberation. There were many others like him at the jungle hideout including girls.
He spent three months at a Maoist camp. He was given all the necessary arms training like bow and arrow training, handling of the 12 bore 303 rifle, guerilla tactics; learned how to make and plant bombs, ambush police patrols and attack police posts etc.
By the fourth month, he was ready to embrace the gun and die for the movement. He also rose to the rank of deputy commander and was based in the jungles of Orissa within a year.
“Initially when I got inducted the ideology was to stop the atrocities that the local rich people committed on the adivasi community but later on I realised that the ideology was just a farce. They were actually keen on looting people for their own benefit. Their ideology is wrong. Most work for them including the villagers as they fear for their lives. The Naxalite leaders say they have no desire for money, then why do they themselves run away with the money? What are they struggling for then?
They say this struggle is for establishing their own government. They say they will wipe out the police and set up their own government. That our lives will improve, but I knew that this is untrue. It will never happen.
I then decided to run away and get out of the shackles of the naxalites. In 1996, I got that opportune moment I was waiting for and ran away,” Babu says.

Since that day Babu has been living in constant fear of being killed. His father and two younger brothers have already been killed by the naxalites. And in the recent past Babu himself has been attacked several times. His body is full of cuts and wounds. Babu now tries to save himself and his mother and younger sister. But he says life is better now than what it was in the jungles. He now works for the Chattisgarh police as a Special Police Officer (SPO) and is paid around Rs 3500 a month. He hopes that some day he will be roped in as a permanent employee in the state police force.

These surrendered boys and girls are roped in as special police officer as they are well informed on how these naxalites operate and also know the jungle routes etc.

Mahesh’s account of what the training process entails

We used to wake up at 4 am for PT and drill, followed by breakfast and then the leaders would talk to us about the teachings of Mao and their way of life. After this we would have lunch and two hours rest followed by PT, drill, training and tea.
In the night after dinner we went to the jungle for night training. Later we were sent to a larger camp for training, here we were taught how to draw maps of police stations, how to gherao police posts, how to snatch a rifle from a constable. We were trained by military commanders. On an average 4 to 5 batches get trained there. The routine at all these camps are the same. We are also trained in self defense in case we came under attack.
Everything that these naxals do is much planned. In the camp they give orders and tell you that today you have to kill. If they order you to kill, you have to do so. They allocate the duties during roll-call, you can't be scared, you have to carry out what they tell you.
They don't even give any money for the work they make us do. The commanders keep all the money and sometimes run away with it. Even if you ask them to give you some money they don’t. They get crores of rupees. The leaders don't fight on the ground as we do. All they do is brain wash the tribals and loot the rich villagers and kill all those who oppose them and hold meetings.

Current Situation in Dantewada:

The police authorities along with the district authorities are doing their best to restore peace in the region and also doing their bit to educate the tribal children. There are several ashrams being run for the children who have been orphaned by the naxalites.
One such ashram in the main district town of Dantewada is the state-run Astha Gurukul School which houses 150 kids. Most kids here have seen their parents being killed brutally before their own eyes and they now want to avenge their parents death and for spreading bloodbath in their State.
“We want to get the 6 to 18 year olds out of the clutches of the naxals and educate them,” says Kangle. DSP Sanjay Sharma says
“How to inject an achievement drive in this region is an issue we are trying to tackle,” says SP Amresh Mishra.
Currently, all efforts are currently on to restore peace, law and order in the district town.

Alangad Trek

This trek took place on Feb 13-14. But sorry could not post earlier as I was caught up terribly at work…But it’s never too late

IT was an eventful night journey in a Qualis, stopping by at the middle of the night at a roadside dabbha for dinner and chai. After a sumptuous dinner we headed straight for the base village Ambewadi. We reached Ambewadi at 3.30 am. Like always we decided to catch few hours of sleep in the courtyard of one of the villager’s home. Our group comprised of Jayesh, Laldev, Myself, Sridhar, Vardhan, Anupama, Shalini, Dr Pritam (who later was known by the name surgeongad), Ashu da (Ashish Deewane), Naveen,
Ashok Hegde, Ashutosh and Yogita.
Morning as we wake up I find the location of the base village is directly amidst the mountains. You wake up to the typical Sahyadri vista-High, rocky cliffs and yellow dried grasses of the winter.
After having tea and biscuits we started our trek around 8.30 am. Our target was to reach the top of Alangad by mid afternoon that day and stay for a while and then proceed to Madangad. The initial route to Alangad is a normal trail through deciduous vegetation and dry grass.
After around 3 hours of walking, we reached a 15 feet rock patch. We find some climbers climbing this small patch. So we wait. The rock patch was small but nevertheless we had to rope up to climb this patch. Soon after this short climb there is a flight of steep stairs which leads us to the main rock patch which is around 50 ft.
We wait for about half hour to climb this small patch. The time is already 1.30 pm. Once all of us our done, we climb up the flight of stairs and get to the next rock patch –the main one. We see the same set of four climbers roping up. Considering the fact that they would take a while to climb up we decide to take a break in the adjoining caves and have our lunch as it is already 2.30 pm. This cave could easily accommodate 7-8 people. The cave became our pit stop while we waited for the climbers ahead of us to finish. We spent our time laughing, joking, just looking around in the valley and clicking pictures.
It was a long wait almost 2 hours. Soon after they finished Laldev is given the task to set up the system. He climbs like a spider before we realize he is already at the top setting up the system for the others to follow. He is amazingly flexible and fearless!! Jayesh is the next to climb and was all set to give belay to the rest of us who were to Jumar and go up this tough rock patch. Jumaring wasn’t easy as well. We had to brace ourselves against the rock face and pull our body up. It was difficult as it was a long stretch and hands gave up at many places but we all still managed to go up. While on one rope we were Jumaring, we had another rope running parallel to pull up our ruck sacks.
We reach the top and there is a wide ledge at the top of this patch where the anchors are set up and adjoining the ledge is a cave. We rested here for a while as it took considerable time till the last person of the group reached the top.
The journey hadn’t ended yet. We still had to climb up some steep steps before we finally reached the plateau where the caves were situated. These were deep cut stairs and had an exposure on one side, which makes the climb a little scary; especially if you are carrying a back pack. It had got dark but, we managed well to go up without a rope. The sheer exposure gives you a thrill and you get the opportunity to negotiate tricky patches on very few treks.
Alang top is a huge plateau with caves in the middle. The remnants of the fort are on a small hillock on the top of the caves. The fort walls are intact and the view from top is mind blowing…
As we reach the caves we find this huge atleast (5000sq ft) cave which we occupy. The earlier group ahead of us occupied the same cave. We got terribly late to reach the caves and therefore missed the sunset.
The walk and the climb at the end of it all were brilliant. Despite the fact that we had several first timers with us in the group who had never rock climbed or knew what jumaring was they all climbed very well. That’s also because Odati Adventures team is well known to adhere to safety measures. There was no room for error. Priority was obviously safety rather than speed.
Everybody reached the caves by 8 pm. The cave was hot owing to the lack of wind. Laldev and I started preparing for dinner. We made some soup, Khichdi and khadi and ended the meal with some tasty sonpapdi.
By now everyone was ready to crash out. The tiredness was setting in. Since the cave was hot, I didn’t have to use my sleeping bag. I used it as my bedding instead. Most of the group did the same.
Day 2: I woke up really early. Nobody was up then & I took the advantage of darkness to finish the morning routine. It’s become a habit for me now in the outdoors I either wake up really early in the morning while it’s still dark or in the middle of the night to answer nature’s call. (Believe me, getting up early in the mountain has its own benifits. You don’t get the toilet area already used up. So u don’t have to go far to find yourself a suitable bush or a boulder to hide behind.. hahah .:).
Since I had woken up early I thought I would catch the sunrise but unfortunately decided against it. I just spent some time sitting alone & idling away on the plateau, looking around and breathing in the cold air. On the West, one could see Ghatghar backwater and Ratangad fort. On the East- Avandha and Patta forts are visible and so is Kalsubai peak.
Soon I realize Vardhan, Ashu da, Deepak, Ashutosh are up. Laldev and myself got down to preparing breakfast and tea, the others helped with the pack up.
When Jayesh and gang came back after almost two hours of spending time in the fort above the caves, I realized what I missed. I heard from the gang that the place was a photographer’s delight. Mountains always look wonderful in the rising and the setting sun and the light conditions are ideal for clicking pictures.
We started the descent at 10 am but lost quite a lot of time climbing down the stairs.
As per the earlier plan we had Madan fort on the itinerary as well but we took a call against on the previous day itself as we had got very delayed.
So we decided to head straight back to the base village. The climb down was difficult as always. Climb down involved scrambling through a lot of loose rock and stones. It was quite tricky and our minds had to be on the alert mode all the while.
At the end of the long trek back, I must say it was very satisfying. The exhaustion was indeed detoxifying. As we reached the road point near Ambewadi, Jayesh who had reached much before us was waiting for us to be picked up.
All in all, an excellent trek. Its tough in terms of stamina. Even though it’s better to be technically trained, the climb is made possible for the novices by the technical people in the group. The mountains are majestic..I have been around Sahyadri before but I liked this trek a lot. The shape of the mountain on this side are just vertical and in your face.
This trek is recommended for all those who want a thrill in life.